• First off, replace the wood glue with acetic silicone.  Standard wood glue is water soluble even after it has fully dried.  The ice in the coffin will melt and we don't want the structure of the coffin compromised as it does. 


• Secondly, instead of using standard drywall screws I used treated deck screws.  They are a little more expensive but will not react to the treated wood and are water resistant.  This should give maximum life to our coffin.  The smallest I could find was 1 1/4" which is cutting it close when screwing planks together.  Watch how deep you set your screws (I left them high) or you'll be filing screw points down for a few hours after you think you are done. 
  
• Thirdly, the planks used to secure the coffin walls to the coffin floor need removed and an alternate mounting put in place.  I ended up cutting old oak parquet flooring left over from a remodeling  project into 1"x1" squares.  I drilled a hole in the center of each (so the screw would not split them), coated both sides with silicone caulk and ran a screw from the bottom of the coffin, through the square block and into the edge of the coffin wall.  I did this about every 6" along the perimiter of the coffin.  This leaves a nice 1/4" gap between the coffin floor and the walls for fog to escape.  I also used the 1/4" pieces of flooring as spacers between all planks.  This keeps the sidewall gaps (needed for the fog to escape) from appearing out-of-place

Once the coffin is built, it's time to add the internal parts that create the chilling chamber.
You will need:

• 1 - 36"x84" roll of fiberglass screen.  Aluminum will work also but the fiberglass is cheeper and easier to work with.
• 1 - 1/4" stainless steel staples for a staple gun.  Stainless Steel are more expensive but will not rust.
• 1 - Staple gun.
• Black plastic sheeting.  Enough to cover the coffin lid.  Black yard cleanup bags will also work - the heavier the better.
• 6" length of 2" PVC pipe
• 2 1/4" hole saw
• scrap 2x4 or similar at least as wide as the widest part of the coffin

• 8' of 1/4" aluminum channel stock
• 1/4" #6 screws
• 60"x36" section of plastic sheeting.  Black or clear.
• 8' of 1/4" diamater cotton or nylon rope
• Large ViceGrip-style pliers

First thing to do is cover the underside of the coffin lid with black plastic sheeting.  This will hide the workings of the chiller and help keep the hot fog inside the coffin.  Stretch the plastic from head to toe first and then from side-to-side.  This will help to smooth the plastic out without creating too many wrinkles.  A staple every 3 inches should be sufficient.

Next, you will need to cut the 2x4 (or similar) to size.  I mount mine to the wall supports in the upper swell of the coffin -  I don't like screws in unusual places making the coffin look unatural (as if fog rolling out of a coffin is anywhere near natural...).  This section will perform two functions: 1) act as a mounting point for one edge of the screen; 2) Act as a wall between the wet ice and the fogger.  Once cut-to-size, mark the center (length-wise) of the board and drill a 2 1/4" hole through the board at about a 20^o angle.  Mount the board inside the coffin with the top of the board sitting about 3/4 of the way up the upper slat of the coffin walls.  Take a section of plastic and staple it to the top of the board and drape it into the main section of the coffin so it hangs down a couple of inches below the bottom of the board.  This is to prevent melting ice from streaming back towards the fog machine.  You can cut a hole in the plastic just smaller than the outer diamater of the 2" PVC pipe to create a seal so water cannot find it's way down the pipe to the fogger.

Time to mount the screen which will hold the ice.  Lay the screen out over the lower section of the coffin.  Start by stapling at the bottom of the coffin about half-way up the top wall slat.  Three staples will suffice for the time being.  Place the PVC pipe in the cutout in the cross-member.  You want to place it so that it does not interfere with the closing of the coffin lid but is high enough that it directs the fog over the ice bed.  You can glue it in place with silicone if you want.

Lightly stretch the screen to the cross-member and staple it to the face of the board.  It is best to staple to the face to prevent ice from falling into and possibly on the fog machine which will be residing in this upper portion of the coffin.  I have no real trick to working around the PVC pipe, just ensure you are routing the screen under the pipe and not over it.

Now to staple the screen to the sides of the coffin.  The best place to start is the anwhere there are support uprights.  Place a single staple in the center of the support and then one into the walls of the coffin on either side of the support.  This will ensure you are not over-stretching and ultimately ripping the screen.  Continue stapling the sides every 4 inches until the entire screen is in place.

Go back around the screen and add an extra staple between every pair of staples.  This should give your screen enough support to hold 20 to 30 pounds of ice.

To keep the fogger off the floor of the coffin (which will get wet as time goes on) and direct the nozzle to the PVC pipe a simple stand for your fogger needs created.  Ideally the fogger should be pointed up at a slight angle but this is not necessary.  I was able to accomplish this with my first fogger using 1 2x4 sitting on it's edge for the front and 1 2x4 sitting on it's side for the back.  You're results may be different due to the different sizes of fog machines.  Keep in mind, there will be melting ice in this box and you want to take every precaution not to allow the fogger to come in contact with the water.  If you want to be certain that this cannot happen, you could isolate the fogger from the rest of the box with plastic sheeting.  Just make sure that the fogger can breath so the heating elements don't over-heat.

Lastly, we need to cut a few access slots for the power wire of the fogger.  You can either drill a hole large enough to accomatate the plug, cut a slit in the top wall wide enough to accomodate the cord, or cut a square door into the bottom of one of the walls so you can open it, feed the wire through, and then close it back up for minimum visual impact.

Time to test.  Grab about 30 pounds of ice and spread it evenly over the screen (the picture only has 10 lbs as this is all I had on hand at the time).  Place the fog machine in the head of the coffin with it's nozzle inside the PVC pipe.  Fill the fogger with your favorite fog juice (I just started using Froggy's - WOW that's some thick fog).  Put the cover on the coffin, let the fogger warm up and blast away.  You should get thick rolling fog out the sides of your coffin.

Optional (and highly recommended) way of sealing the fog chamber over the ice bed: (coming soon)